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Follow my Promenade du Paillon tour and you’ll come to the “Church of the Vow” or, more properly the Eglise Saint Jean Baptiste-Le Voeu at the end of the Coulée Verte park. So what was this famous vow?

Like so many Nice churches, Eglise Le Voeu was built in response to a cholera epidemic. It was the early 1830s and the disease was sweeping the region wreaking devastation in its wake. In six months there were 100,000 deaths in France. On April 15, 1832 the city council, in a special session, made a solemn vow (voeu): if Nice was spared the epidemic, the city would place itself under the protection of the Virgin and build a new church. Also, the city would organize a ceremony each year to renew its commitment to the Virgin.

Nice escaped the epidemic without a single death. Was it the Virgin or the strict quarantine that separated Nice from the lands west of the Var river? Locals were sure it was the Virgin and planning for the new church began a few years later. It was finished in 1852 and every year since then the city of Nice organises a ceremony around the renewal of the vow.

This Sunday, May 29, 2022 from 9:15 a.m., Christian Estrosi will renew the Vœu de Nice, The ceremony that follows is a great opportunity to sample Nice’s local culture.

Here’s the program:

9:15 a.m. Gathering at Place Saint-François 

9:50 a.m. Renewal of the Vow by Christian Estrosi on Place Saint-François 

10.15 a.m. Procession to the Eglise Le Voeu

10.30 a.m. Mass in the Eglise Le Voeu presided over by Jean-Philippe Nault, Bishop of Nice

12.30 p.m. Friendship drink and then a folklore performance by La Ciamada Nissarda

The Municipal Guard Band will provide the music. I don’t know who the Municipal Guard is or why they have a band but I’ve heard them play and they’re good!

 

Interior of the Palais de Marbre, Nice
Interior of the Palais de Marbre, Nice. Courtesy of Nice Tourist Office

The Villa Les Palmiers (aka Palais de Marbre) is the jewel of West Nice. Ernest Gambart, an English art dealer, built a vast mansion on an 18th-century estate to house his extensive art collection. 27 boats sailed from Carrara, Italy laden with marble for the statues, columns, balustrades, walls and floors. It soon became the center of Nice’s social life when Gambart welcomed his famous friends. Argentinian meat-baron Edouard Soulas later renovated the interior in a neoclassical Louis XV style replete with chinoiserie, paneling, inlaid wood and gilt. He also laid out the English-style garden.

Readers of Nice Uncovered know that the vast garden is open to the public and well-worth a visit. The interior contains Nice’s Municipal Archives and is usually only open to researchers and on special occasions.

This spring however, the interior will be open for free guided visits (in French). It’s an unparalleled opportunity to experience the art and design prevalent in 19th-century Nice.

The visits are from 10-11.30am every other Friday morning through June. The next visit is Friday 25 March. You must reserve in advance:

     tel 04 93 86 77 44  
    email: archives@ville-nice.fr

 

The full program for the Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days) is finally available with ALL the special visits scheduled for September 17-19. (See here for the partial program in English). Everything is FREE but for many events a reservation is necessary. Don’t delay! Note that a “Pass Sanitaire” or negative Covid test will be required. Some sites may require ID and/or a passage through a metal detector to gain entry.

Don’t think that it’s all about visiting stuffy museums and listening to lectures in French! There are plenty of activities for kids of all ages as well as special dance, musical and theatrical presentations. If you’ve ever wondered what Nice’s traditional language, Nissart, sounds like you’ll want to listen in on some of the short tours conducted in that language. I believe it’s the first time the city has included this feature. 

Following are just a few of my favorites:

ATELIER CUISINE NIÇOISE
2, rue du Sénat
Saturday and Sunday 10h-12.30 and 14h to 18h
A great way to discover Nice cuisine right in Old Nice.

LA VILLA LES PALMIERS
Saturday and Sunday 10h-18h

The fabulous Palais du Marbre harbors the Municipal Archives. Entry to the gardens is always available (as I detail in Nice Uncovered) but the elaborate interior is normally closed. It’s definitely worth a trek to West Nice and makes a good starting point to look around the rest of the neighborhood.

FORUM D’URBANISME ET DARCHITECTURE
89, route de Turin
Saturday 9.30h-11h
The former slaughterhouse has been transformed into a contemporary art gallery, Le 109,  and will present a special “Visites chorégraphiques d’architecture” Saturday morning. I don’t know what it is either but it sounds original.

PALAIS DES ROIS SARDES
Place Pierre Gautier
Saturday 9h-12h and 14h-17h
The Palais de la Préfecture features prominently in my Old Town tour because it was the center of government when the Dukes of  Savoy ruled Nice. The interior is spectacular but line up well in advance as this is a popular visit.

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CAMPUS DE TROTABAS
Faculté de Droit et Science politique
Avenue du Doyen Louis Trotabas
04 89 15 25 00
The Chagall mosaic makes this a worthwhile stop especially as it’s normally closed to the public.

CAMPUS DE VALROSE
28, avenue Valrose
Saturday and Sunday 14h-17h
The Valrose estate dates from the heyday of Cimiez in the late 19th century when Queen Victoria wintered in the neighborhood. It’s normally closed to the public (only students and faculty members may enter) and is well worth the trip up to Cimiez. 

You can find the full program (in French) here.

Do you have questions? Just send me a message on Facebook Chat in the lower right and I’ll do my best to answer.

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