Promenade du Paillon Season 2
The extension of the Promenade du Paillon, now called Promenade du Paillon Saison 2, has finally opened and it’s an extraordinary addition to Nice’s urban landscape. Stretching over 8 hectares (almost 20 acres), this visionary project opened on October 18 after more than three years of work. Together with the Coulée Verte, the original Promenade du Paillon, Nice now has 20 hectares of greenery in central/eastern Nice.
(Follow my guided walk through the Coulée Verte in Nice Uncovered: Walks Through the Secret Heart of a Historic City)
But the Promenade du Paillon Saison 2 is more than a pretty place to hang out. Yes there are quiet lanes (which will be shadier once the trees grow)
Mediterranean greenery
reflecting pools
sculptures such as this one by Bernar Venet
and this one by Niki de Saint Phalle
a boules court
a playground
and a fitness area
In addition to the recreational opportunities, the Promenade du Paillon also serves a crucial ecological function. It’s no secret that summers on the Riviera are becoming insufferably hot and that planting trees and shrubs cools down the surrounding streets. More than 3,500 trees and 1,500 shrubs of 250 varieties have been planted, prioritizing those species best adapted to a hot, dry climate. They require little water but to be sure there’s also a system to harvest and store rainwater. There’s also topographical diversity as the space includes shaded undergrowth, meadows, a bamboo grove, water gardens and shade-producing trees such as jacaranda and magnolia.
In order to create this space a long stretch of concrete buildings that once housed the Theatre de Nice and the Acropolis were torn down. This was controversial. Demonstrators insisted that both buildings were part of Nice’s heritage and should stay.
“Those people don’t live in the neighborhood” one local told me when I mentioned the controversy. “We love it and we’ve already noticed a difference in temperature in our apartment”, he said.
This urban forest should allow for a reduction of 2 to 3 degrees in air temperature and up to 10 degrees in perceived temperature during heat waves, the City states. ” Reports made by bailiffs in the summer of 2022, during an orange heat wave alert, recorded a ground temperature of 46.2°C in the area of the Paillon promenade extension, compared to a temperature of 26.5°C in the already vegetated area between Place Masséna and Traverse de la Bourgada. ” batiactu.com
In addition, it’s estimated that the new trees will absorb 1740 tons of CO2 per year and improve the city’s air quality which, to be honest, is not that great. The city’s ambitious goal is to insure that every resident has a view of three trees (!) and no one lives more than 300 meters from a green space. It should be noted that the area bordering the Promenade du Paillon is not considered prestigious like the Promenade des Anglais or Cimiez or the Quartier des Musiciens. It’s not where foreigners buy houses. The population is mainly local and working class.
What about money? The project cost €94 million of which the PACA region provided €33 million. Nice things cost money. And it’s not finished yet! Much work needs to be done on the lateral sides, MAMAC (Musée de l’Art Moderne et Contemporaine) and the attached city library is being overhauled and new entrances installed. Would that be Season 3?
How to Visit the Promenade du Paillon
To visit the entire two-kilometer stretch, start at Place Massena and keep walking through the Coulée Verte. After the Traverse de la Bourgada, go up the stairs to the Niki de Saint Phalle sculpture which begins the Promenade du Paillon Season 2. Continue to the Traverse Jean Monnet where the Promenade ends.
To visit only the extension, take tram 1 or 2 to Place Garibaldi. Head north to MAMAC which is now closed for renovation, go up the stairs and begin the walk. At the Traverse Jean Monnet is the bus stop Palais des Expositions serviced by the 8+ bus.
Note that there are currently no side entrances open as work on cycle paths along the lateral sides is continuing.
To soak up the ambiance of the Promenade du Paillon Season 2, check out my YouTube video. Don’t forget to like and subscribe!
